Saturday, June 23, 2012

Rhyncholaeliocattleya Haruko Kanzaki

Rhyncholaeliocattleya Haruko Kanzaki - Flower photo by Richard LindbergThis plant bloomed late last year shortly after I got it from Steve Christoffersen. I was going to leave it alone this year and re-evaluate it next spring.

Rhyncholaeliocattleya Haruko Kanzaki - Re-pot now or wait a year?But when I looked at it closely last week, I saw that the second lead was dead and I could see roots winding around the pot. With the new growth now just right for re-potting, I decided to go ahead and clean it up now.

I soaked the pot in water for a few minutes and after a bit of moving the plant back and forth in the pot, it slid out cleanly without sticking to the pot. I was happy to see that the root ball was not as tight as I thought it would be and I didn't see any dead roots.

I'm glad I didn't wait another year to re-potI started working the roots loose with just my fingers. No cutting. I pulled out the sphagnum moss and washed a few times, taking it slow. Only after I got the roots untangled and I could clearly see how all the pseudobulbs were attached did I make the first cut. I removed the dead pseudobulb.

Really good roots on all parts of the plant. Now I have two divisionsThen I looked at the shape of the plant. The plant was more or less in a straight line and I would need a wide pot. Some people might have centered the lead and put it back in the same pot. I decided to take the youngest two pseudobulbs and the new growth as a division.

The other half of the plant. the three backbulbs went back in the original pot. There were good roots and leaves on the pseudobulbs so it is a true division, not a case of sprouting backbulbs. True, a new growth will have to develop but that will happen, probably very soon.

3 comments:

  1. Hi,
    What a gorgeous root ball you have! I am wondering how can you get cattleya roots to get this healthy, how frequently you water the cattleya that is potted in sphagnum moss? and what is the humidity rate?
    Thanks,
    Nader

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  2. I am learning to love sphagnum and clay. It takes a bit of getting used to. The first thing is that there is no schedule for watering. I have plants in all sized pots and they dry at different rates. And plants that are actively growing dry out sooner. For Catts, clay pots are necessary because plastic holds the water too long.

    My test is touching the surface of the sphagnum. If there is ANY softness, it is too soon to water. It has to be hard with no "give" to it.

    This made me nervous until I broke a pot I was going to water and found that even with a hard surface, the sphagnum below was not really fully dry.

    When I water, I water a lot. Then a small amount of weak Bayer All-in-One near the new growth. The fert will spread in the wet sphagnum but be strongest near the active growth.

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    Replies
    1. Thanks for the informative replay,

      I'll try your method of sphagnum and clay, because I tried the plastic and bark for a long time, and gave it a strict schedule of watering the 2.5 inche pot every 4 to five days while kept in a 75% rate of humidity in my terrarium, but unfortunately roots kept dying whether by too much watering or by the lack of humid air at the short time I leave it outside the terrarium after watering (outside rate of humidity in my city goes to less than 30%)

      Thanks again, and wish my luck :)
      Nader

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